Rudder 2

The aft-most holes on the tip rivet where impossible to get to (even with a modified pop-rivet dimple die).  To get these dimples, I actually cut a "dimple-set" into a scrap workbench with a countersink cutter that fit the contour of the rib.  I then used the long set from the c-frame with a male dimple die.  The table itself acted as the female die...it seemed to produce an okay rivet.

Close-up of the rudder horn assembly clecoed together...nutplate gets installed to hold the rod-end bearing.

Shot of the rudder horn brace riveted in place.  It took some time, but I was able to get solid rivets in the side using the 3" yoke.  There is no way to put solid rivets in the bottom, so those get pop rivets.

When starting to rivet the trailing edge, I was extremely cautious.  I had heard a lot of stories about wavy double-flush trailing edges.  If found that if you follow the Van's instructions exactly, it will turn out very nice.

First step is to get a 4' piece of aluminum angle (mine was 1 1/8 x 1 1/8) and drill the hole pattern into it.  You want to proseal the whole trailing edge and let it set up at least overnight to "lock" the edge in the straight position. 

You then want to back rivet every few rivets about halfway down to lock the edge.  Be sure to support the rest of the rudder level with the back rivet plate and weigh down the top surface.   Once everything is partially set, you can then use the mushroom set to finish the job.

Leading edge rolled and completed.  This seemed to be easier than the elevator leading edge.

On to the wings.....