Left Wing 2

Since the inside rib on the leading edge is undrilled, you must install it with the joint plate once the LE is on the spar.  I made one intelligent decision and one dumb one in reference to this. 

I decided to deburr and flange all of the ribs prior to assembling the skeleton.  I was bright enough to not flange the undrilled rib at that time, as you do not want to put a flange mark in the spot where a hole may be drilled.  When it comes time to install the rib, it is somewhat difficult to fit it into place with the correct spacing all around.  What I should have done is roughly place it in place, then mark on the rib the location of all the skin holes.  I could have then removed the rib and flanged it appropriately.  As it was...I just muscled it into place best I could (with a rubber mallet), then drilled the holes.  It took far too long to get it right, as I was "muscling" the curvature out of the rib (as opposed to flanging it). 

Once the leading edge is fit, you have to enlarge the pre-punched hole to accept the tie down ring.  Vans sells forged rings for $3.50 each, and they are not included in the wing kit (don't know why).  Some people opt for the eye bolts, but I think that doesn't look nearly as good.  When locating the hole, the instructions have you drawing lines that intersect the tie down hole on the bottom skin (with the leading edge off).  Don't know why they have you do this, as it does not help at all (inspection cover leaves cutout in wing).  On mine, the pre-punched hole was very close, and I just used a unibit to enlarge it to the appropriate size.  As I was threading the ring into the tie-down, I realized I had not tapped the spar channel deep enough.  The instructions say to tap it 1" deep.  Since taps are tapered, you will obviously have to tap deeper than the 1" to get 1" of full thread engagement (I overlooked this).

z