Left Wing 1
Once the main ribs are riveted to the spar, it is time to mount it in a jig. I was fortunate enough to borrow a nice metal wing jig that RV8 builder Wade Lively had used. It has leveling feet, so the first thing to do was get it and the main spar level. I used metal shims under the rib ends to level as appropriate. Once you have it level, you run a string tightly across the rear spar to determine the amount of sag in the middle. I then built a jack screw out of two scrap pieces of 4x4, a one foot piece of 1/2" threaded rod, and appropriate nuts/washers. Just drill 1/2" holes in the ends of the 4x4s, then tighten the nut to raise or lower.
First step when fitting the skins is to drill the wing walk doubler. The piece you will use to make the doubler is 10" by 48" long. You will measure and cut it as appropriate to the right length. The actual width is 9 3/8. Originally I left it as 10", but it covers an additional rivet hole at that weight (and did not want a bulge). Besides...given the emphasis on weight, I might as well cut it to size. Once I had it positioned under the skin appropriately (and weighted down), I used the skin as a guide and drilled the holes. You can see that I used the home insulation foam as backing again. This works wonderfully well for this sort of thing, as it allows you to cleco right into the skin.
Next comes time to fit the top skins. Once the top skins are fitted, then you will go back and fit the bottom skins. Pay close attention to which pieces overlap the others, as you would not want to mix them up.
I debated for a long time whether to build both wings at the same time or separately, and I ultimately decided separate. A few key reasons:
Free up more space in the garage.
I know now that I would not have had enough clecos (400 is barely enough for one complete wing).
Only real time savings is in tooling (I'm told the 2nd wing goes together much faster).
Once you have the main wing skins fitted and drilled (there are a ton of holes), it is time to build a cradle for the leading edge. To do so, you just trace the profile of a rib out on particle board, then cut away. You do not have to make the width the exact length...it is just a suggested length.
After you make the end pieces, it is time to attach a 2x4 connecting piece. The plans have you install it underneath the two end pieces. I looked at that for a while and decided it was not smart, as it would make the jig unstable. Instead, I connected the 2x4 between the back sides of the end pieces. I cut and attached an old t-shirt to the contour for the sides for protection as well.
I have since learned that you really should install the 2x4 underneath the end pieces. With it connected as shown above, it makes it difficult to remove and install the forward most clecos.
Once the cradle is made, it is time to install the LE skin and ribs. This is not real easy, as it is very difficult to get the ribs all of the way into the skin. Follow the directions closely and ensure to install the forward-most clecos first (alternate between top and bottom). I found I had to make use of a nail punch and small nail to pull some of the holes into alignment.
Once you get the leading edge all clecoed together, you then install the completed piece on top of the wing spar.
