Left Tank 6

Prior to installing the baffle, you need to finish up the interior details of the tank.  I had decided to go with the float senders.  Although capacitance is a little more accurate, it is at least $200 more when you figure the converter cost for the cap units.  I've always been taught and practiced "not to trust the gauge", so 100% accuracy was okay with me.  That $200 would be better spent on other gizmos (EFIS, etc).  I have also heard of people with many different electrical "gremlins" due to the cap current, so I felt comfortable that the floats were the best for me.

1st step is bending the float wire.  I used the vise and bent away.  The instructions give clear indications where to make the bends, so it is pretty straightforward.  Don't forget the 3/4" hook bend on the end to keep it in place on the sender.

Once the sender is bent, you can cleco and install everything in place.  You will want to test the range of travel to ensure there is no more than 1/8" between the skin and the float in the full up and full down positions. Mine came out good on the first try, but you will definitely want to fix it if it is wrong.  You can also hook a multi-meter up to the sender wires.  The instructions give settings for the measure resistance in the full up and full down positions (I believer it is 260 ohms and 32 ohms).  Mine was within 1 or 2 ohms, so all looks good.

Next comes time to install the vent line.  This process is very straightforward...install the snap bushings in the pre-drilled holes in the rib and run the tubing through the snap bushings.  Be sure to run the outboard end through the clip in the fuel filler flange. I bent it up slightly to ensure it was at the high point.

Once you've run it through and cut it to length, you will need to flare the inboard end.  I did not have a flaring tool yet, so I had to order one.  I did a lot of searching, and the best price was found on the Parker Rolo-Flaire at Aicraft Tool Supply ($70).  The tool is very easy to use and produces nice clean fittings.

You specifically do not want to put any lube on the AN fitting prior to attaching.  I put a little dap on top to "lock" the nut in place when it was done.

Last final bit of prep work prior to installing the baffle is to fabricate the fuel pickup.  This is very easily done by bending a piece of 3/8" tubing.  I bent it in the standard tubing bender, and it seemed to work fine.  To create a coarse filter, you crimp the end of the tube.  You then cut slits in the side of the tube to allow fuel flow.  Put the AN fittings on, flare the other end, and you're done.

With all interior details done, you can install the baffle.  No pics here (it was a mess).  A word of advice...allocate a lot of time for this.  I mistakenly though this would be quick, and it ended up taking 5 or 6 hours.