Left Tank 2

With the z-brackets attached to the spar, place the completed tank assembly on top.  You can slide it as desired so that there is no gap at the joint plate.  As evident from the picture below, this came out very well.

I noticed that the tank skin protrudes forward slightly more (maybe 0.5x the thickness of the skin) than the leading edge skin.  I am told this is due to the thickness of the skin.  I checked with the list, and others said that was fairly common.  For those that it really bothered, they went ahead and used Superfil on the low side of the joint to even it out.  To try and minimize the protrusion as much as possible, I went ahead and snugged the tank down firmly with ratcheting tie-downs prior to drilling the joint plate holes.  Once you are satisfied with the tank positioning, you can remove the leading edge (undo the joint plate and spar clecos).  With the leading edge removed, drill the rib/baffle/bracket attach holes from the top on both the inboard and outboard ribs.  Use a 12" drill bit to absorb as much of the drill angle as possible.  After the outer ribs and drilled, they can then be clecoed to the bracket to locate the tank on the brackets.

With the tank clecoed at the outer ends, remove the skin clecos from the outer ribs and baffle (and remove the tank assembly).  That then gives you unrestricted access to drill the baffle/bracket attach holes on the rest of the locations.

If you haven't already done so, you can then reinstall the tank and leading edge assemblies and drill the tank joint plate attach holes to #19. 

Once the tank alignment is all completed, you must remove the tank assembly and drill all of the rib and baffle attach holes to #40.  You must also countersink the skin/baffle attach holes at this time.  It works quite well to do this with the tank assembly in place in the cradle.  The baffle acts as additional pilot support for the c-sink cutter.

Next comes time to cut and drill the tank stiffeners.  There are four different sizes of stiffeners, so you have to be careful prior to cutting.  The stiffener angle came 4 to a stick, and the stiffener pieces were laid out in order on the angle (A, B, C, D).  The process here is identical to the elevator/rudder stiffeners.  As always, I used the home insulation to drill and cleco the stiffeners to the skin.