Elevator Assembly

Upon initial fit of the elevators to the HS, you will immediately see that the counterbalance skin hits the edge of the HS.  It is expected and is due to the mixing of various kit parts.  To resolve simply measure and mark the required area to remove on the HS.  You want to be sure and give yourself a similar amount of clearance as is present along the sides of the counterbalance skins.  I ended up removing around 26 mm.  To cut the material...I drilled a small hole in the corner of the area to be removed and cut the remaining area off with a Dremel cutoff disc.  I finished the edge with a file and scotchbrited the whole area.

When you go to install the elevator attach bolts, you will find it is very difficult.  Prior to the first installation, you should run the bolts through the brackets by themselves to ensure the holes are the proper size.  To install the bolts, I highly recommend getting a pair of hemostats to hold the bolt in place.  They work much better than anything else I tried.  If you tape over the teeth of the hemostat, then it should not damage the bolt.

Initial fit of the elevators to the HS...first real control assembly, and it is very gratifying.  There really isn't a dent in the HS...just a bad reflection.

You then have to measure the deflection.  Many people use the digital smart level, but a simple angle finder should be sufficient.  Place it in a fixed location on the elevator and measure the initial taper.  Then move the elevator up and down to find the limits of travel (and add or subtract the initial angle).  Limits for travel are specified in the book. 

You will have to notch and remove a small portion of the material from the 603PP to get the full downward travel.

I also had some problems with the leading edge scrapping the spar.  I backed out the rod-end bearings (still within limits) and reshaped the leading edge by hand.