Elevator (Page 3)

To create the flush fit on the counterbalance, you have to c-sink the lead weight and dimple the skin for a #10 screw.  To c-sink the weight, I found it worked best to use the electric screwdriver w/ c-sink bit (and no cage).  I made the dimple by first squeezing it to #8, then placing the actual screw in place and tightening it down against the weight.  It will force the dimple into the material (I did not have a #10 die at that point).

Next came time to bend the tabs for the trim tab cutout.  You definitely want to take your time here, as the elevator is basically complete at this point.  Take extra time to get the trailing edge angle right.  I cut my blocks a little thin, and I ended up using a dremel to remove too much material.  I did not find this part to be as hard as others warned...I used the hand seamers to get the bend started, and I think that helped a lot.  Make sure the top flap overlaps the bottom and do the bottom first (my elevator is upside down in the pic), as you will not want to "unflap" one side once it is done.  You will also want to be sure you have the flush set turned down low, as it can do some damage. 

I got carried away and dimpled the 606 trim tab spar on both sides.  The instructions state to c-sink the top and dimple the bottom, as the c-sink in the top will not require you to do anything to the hinge.  Rather than order a new part, I ended up c-sinking the hinge, and I think it worked beautifully.