Elevator (Page 2)

Stiffeners all primed and riveted in place.  Back riveting is definitely the way to go here.  I found the rivets nearest the folded edge were extremely difficult to set.  You really have to put a lot of pressure down on the material so that the rivets sits flush in the dimple.  I had a couple that I had to drill out  where the hole got enlarged.  Thank goodness for the oops rivets...you will want to buy plenty of the NAS1097 AD4-3.5 to 5 rivets for these ocassions.

When you go to cleco the whole thing together, you will see that there is a bulge near the outer edge.  Where the 701 skin overlaps the 713 counterbalance skin (and spars), the additional layers creates a bulge.  To address this bulge, the manual instructs you to "bevel" the 713 counterbalance skin.  I was a little confused at first, but it is actually telling you to essentially "thin" the material.  I marked off exactly where the overlap was, and took a "mouse" sander to the material to thin it.  Seemed to work pretty well, but you will still have some bulge no matter how much you thin.  Picture on the right shows the before and after skin thickness:

Next you must countersink the 709 root rib so that the elevator horn can lay flush over the spar.  Not quite sure why it says to c-sink (as oppose to dimple), but I would probably dimple if I did it again.

When dimpling the trailing edge of the tip and root rib, you will quickly see that there isn't enough room for any of the "standard" riveting techniques.  To accomplish this portion, I ended up taking my pop-rivet dimple die and cutting a piece of nail exactly the height of the mated dies.  The nail aligns the two in the hole, then you can use vise grips or pliers to squeeze the dies together and create the dimple.  Worked pretty well, but I think I will break down and buy the vise-grip dimplers in the future (always need an excuse for a new tool).